JEWELLERY ARTS, DESIGN AND HISTORY


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The Making of Gold Jewellery

Through Lost Wax Casting

A close-up look at the artists and the artistry involved in Creating Gold Jewllery. Covers the entire process, from raw material through finished product. © World Gold Council

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Two-thirds of the gold mined each year is used to make jewellery. The "lost wax" casting technique, developed more than 4,000 years ago, enables the modern jewellery maker to create faithful copies of a design from the same model. "Lost wax" was invented by the ancient Egyptians, was lost, then rediscovered in 1545 by Benvenuto Cellini, the great Italian goldsmith. After Cellini's death, the art was "lost" again and not rediscovered until the early 1900's by an American dentist, Dr. W.H. Taggert. Readily adopted by the dental industry, it was not widely used in commercial jewellery manufacturing until after World War II.

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ca04It is the method used for creating perhaps 60% of all karat gold jewellery made today. From an original design, a model is made in metal.

ca05The model is used to make a rubber mold. When the mold is ready, the model is removed ....

ca06Wax is injected and a perfect wax copy is formed.

ca08The wax copies are affixed to a post and plaster of Paris is poured over them.

ca09The hardened mold is placed into a kiln and fired. The wax melts - is "lost" - leaving the hollow plaster mold. Molten gold is then forced by pressure or sucked by vacuum into the mold so that it fills every crevice and forms perfect copies of the original design.

ca10The plaster is broken and washed away from the cooled gold casting.

ca11The individual gold items are now ready to be cut from the "tree".. for hand finishing and polishing.

ca12The result is a beautiful piece of karat gold jewellery, which flawlessly mirrors the designer's original.

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